Running stunt mills

[Dan Mrozek]

I will jump start this off. One of main problems of guys getting back into stunt is running cheap RC fuel in their engines. The UC stunt engines are allways pulling the model. They have much higer load on them. Castor oil in healthly amount helps this. Modern stunt tanks of today are a far cry from those crappy tanks Perfect made. Fuel filters are good. And do balance those props. For flying were noise is a problem, mufflers are a must. Modern engines are better suited for this. Good luck, and have some fun. There is more stunt items out there than ever before. Some of the new engines will lift a log off the ground. Dan :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

[Dan Mrozek]

While many older engines were great runers they have severe drawbacks. Parts are amoung the bigies. You need to seek contacts and always be on look out for parts. I rebuilt several Johnsons,and Vecos. Most came out good, but good P/L are almost impossible to come by. I have heat treated some that has made them useable. To have them cromed and fitted you just may :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: choose to go to a new mill. I prefer BB engines over cheaper plain bearing. You can pay some big bucks for custom tuned engines, or buy decent factory engine like OS LA.40/ .46 for under $70.00. Even most RC engines can be converted with venturi, nva and lower pitch prop with good sucess.
With fields rapidly closing, UC takes far less space and engines are not loud with mufflers. No radio to buy, and no 1/3 size monster to load in your car. Plus you are conected hands on with your bird. Want to go fast? Try fast jet at 204+ mph that you hold on to. You never forget it. Or real combat in a circle. Like graceful flying try stunt. Team effort, try racing. How about scale that flys 120 mph and lands on a carrier deck: try carrier. alot more than a toy on a string!!! Dan

[Jack R]

Been trying to get myself back into C/L for about 10 or 12 years now..too much stuff going on work..taking care of two houses..cars etc..had a lot of fun with ringmasters..yak 9's Fox 35's..red head McCoys..even some 1/2 A stuff back in the mid sixtys..still have some planes hanging in the basement..drawer full some old Fox's and a few others..reading Dans posts got me thinking again.thanks Dan.....any suggestions on a low price .ball bearing motor 29 to 35 size?

[Jack R]

Question for Dan.....I see you don't like perfect tanks....what did you find works better....If I get myself back into this hobby..will probably stick with profile planes..am interested in foam wings for ease of building over framed up wing designs of my youth...thanks Jack

[Dan Mrozek]

Hi Jack, Brodack and RSM have some really good tanks for stunt. Top flite makes a ARF Nobler and Fliestreak Too. Those old Foxes and McCoys still work fine today. Brodact will have everything you will need. Tower Hobbies sells ARF Noblers, F/Streak. That will save you time building. On profiles use RC foam to insulate tank from body of model. Also put several drops of Armour all to fuel. It stops foaming and lean runs. IF you must use RC fuel put about 12oz. of castor to fuel. Even if you need to remove some fuel from container. Use a good hot plug with idle bar to keep it lit. Try clstunt.com and search. Mucho info there. Good luck and enjoy. This is can do!! Regards,Dan :lol: :lol: :idea: :idea: :idea: :idea:

[Jim Thomerson]

I generally end up replumbing metal tanks anyway. I use Perfect tanks, but would not use one without opening it up and replumbing it. As far as foam wing profiles go, Corehouse has several and there is a cottage industry "Ukey" which is very good. You can find the source in the products review section on Stuka Stunt products review (address given above). Dan has given you the major UC sources. Sig, Powermaster and others make appropriate fuels. There are also a number of cottage industry sources for components, engine rework, etc. Come join the fun!

Jim

[viking61]

As posted before fuel is key to having good results. Sig fuel is very good, have good results with Powermaster, Red Max too. Uniflow tank are a must for a steady run. Use a filter, I like Sullivan crap trap type.
New engines for stunt under $100.00
1-ST G.51 Tower Hobbies price $79.95
2-OS LA .40 stunt $65.00 T/H
3-OS LA .46 stunt $69.95 T/H
4-Veco .19 Stunt RJL I belive is $69.95
5- Fox .35 stunt generally around $60.00-$70.00 Problem here is you must use 28% castor oil or you will fry this engine quick.
These are UC ready as you can use others. They need UC venturi and nva. So you will not save much. Hope this may help some returns or newbies. Dan

[Ken McClenahan]

Dukes Fuel has 20% castor oil. Fox Superfuel is 5% nitro and 29% Castor oil. I prefer Superfuel can't buy either here in the Denver area so I have to use SIG with 10% nitro and 20% castor oil which works well in my three iron piston Fox 35s and my five various Johnsons. I have had no problems with the engines using the SIG fuel.

[Phil Bare]

Hey Ken, I ment to say super fuel, caught the mistake after I posted.
I have a whole herd of older engines and wouldn,t chance using anything with less then 25-29% castor in them, even though, some are ringed engines. Super fuel can be ordered directly from Fox and not be prohibitivly expensive or you can stop by your local motorcycle shop and buy castor thaqt works well........Phil

[Ken McClenahan]

The Fox website is almost useless but I do find that they are selling Superfuel at 12 quarts for $99.20 + $7.00 for shipping. I never buy fuel by the quart, three gallons total is more than I care to buy at one time, I have never had fuel shipped to me, and my friends have all told me that there is a hefty HazMat charge.

All castor oils are not created equal. About three years ago I pulled my Johnson SS out of the coffee can and it still turned over freely even though it had not been run in 35 years. The fuel I was using back in the 60s was Testors 39. I took the Johnson out flying and it started on the first flip. Other engines that had been run much more recenty were locked up, generally due to the connecting rod bearings being gummed up.

The best castor oil ever was produced by Francisco Labs (remember Powermist) back in the 50s. Sig seems to use a very good castor oil.

[Phil Bare]

Hi Ken, you are exactly right, there are many grades and types of castor oil, what we need for model engines is expeller produced and filtered.
I on occasion mix my own fuel using castor oil obtained from the local yamaha shop and alky purchased at lowes hard ware. It works pretty well....:-) I will not run synthetics in any of my engines...