cleaning older engines

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cleaning older engines

Postby 97corvette » Wed Feb 28, 2007 9:47 am

I have a number of older control line engines. most have the blackened heads from many hours of flying and no effort to keep them clean. Can someone tell me how to clean the outside so it has the bright, new look? I have tried polishing with metal cleaner, soaking in carb cleaner, and different solvents. i can get the crud off but i can't get the brightness back.
So, help.
thanks, marvin
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Postby JOHN G » Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:08 pm

OVEN CLEANER WILL GET THE OLD BURNT FUEL ETC. OFF
I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR A LONG TIME FOR A CHEMICAL BRIGHTENER
I DON'T THINK THERE IS SUCH AN ANIMAL
ELBOW GREASE ,A BRASS BRUSH AND BUFFING COMPOUND IS ABOUT IT
I HOPE SOMEONE WILL PROVE ME WRONG
JOHN G
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Postby ron bennett » Wed Feb 28, 2007 1:43 pm

I have found that Pepsodent toothpaste and a soft toothbrush will resotre most cleaned case to new apperence. Pepsodent is about the finest grit I've found - so other brand are way too aggressive.

The only "problem" that the Pepsodent treatment will not polish out is alloy blackening of cases with a high magesium content ( like later Super Tigres).

ROn Bennett
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Postby JOHN G » Wed Feb 28, 2007 2:04 pm

RON:
I'VE TRIED JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING ,EVERY ALUMINUM CLEANER
I COULD FIND, I'VE TRIED CHEMICAL CO'S THEY WERE NO HELP
MANY YEARS AGO THEY HAD A CHEMICAL WASH THAT WE USED TO
BRIGHTEN THE ALUMINUM ON OUR A/C. I DON'T THINK THAT IS AVAILABLE ANY MORE I USE SEARS BUFFING COMPOUND WITH A BUFFING WHEEL 6IN & SMALLER ONES (DREMEL)
MAX HANSEN SET ME ON TO THIS METHOD AND IT WORKS VERY WELL
JOHN G
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Postby ron bennett » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:15 am

Buffing compound and a wheel will give you a bright shine like the late Fox engines, but if you are restoring a cast engine case and need a clean, even matte finish, the Pepsodent technique is the best bet.

The safest and most efficient way to clean baked on castor stains is in a yard-sale-purchased crock pot and anti-freeze. But the MOST IMPORTANT thing is that you use real ethyl glycol (old style, "unsafe") anti-freeze WITHOUT any special additives. Usually, this is going to be the really cheap stuff at your auto parts store, but you do have to read the label to be sure. Don't leave your engine overnight and be careful with cases that have high magnesium content, like Super Tigre cases - they mag will blacken and cannot be removed. Really baked on castor like around the head and on mufflers, will take a few cycles in the cork-pot. Remember to cover the pot when not in use so cats/dogs/other dritter can't get to it.

Most chemical cleaners (CRC break cleaner, Berryman's carb cleaner, etc.) will remove the castor build-up, but are toxic ot a lesser or greater extent AND they will strip off paint (how to ruin a K&B Greenhead real fast) and disolve or soften any rubber (O-rings for example) and most plastics.

Ron Bennett
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Postby JOHN G » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:42 am

RON:
YOUR TOOTH PASTE & BRUSH METHOD I PUT IN MY SCRAP BOOK
ALONG WITH EVERY OTHER METHOD I FIND AS I KNOW THAT THERE ISN'T ANY ONE SET UP THAT WILL DO IT ALL AS SOME ARE POLISHED,
PAINTED,BRIGHT AND CAST ETC. BEING A NEWBE --TO DATE I'VE
ONLY TACKLED POLISHED CASES WHICH ARE TOUGH ENOUGH
WHEN I FIND A BRIGHTENER THOSE CASES WILL BE MY NEXT PROJECT
JOHN G
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Postby Frank Klenk » Thu Mar 01, 2007 3:59 pm

I agree with Ron. I use the crockpot method for the real dirty ones. Don't go too nuts with the heat setting though, too hot and the parts will darken. I also use an aluminum wheel cleaner with excellent results. DOn't use the cleaner that is advertised as an etching cleaner, far too aggressive. Soak em in the pot, rinse em in hot water, spray on some mag cleaner and use a brush like one for scrubbing the floors and you'll have clean engines. Takes a bit of practice. :)
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cleaner

Postby max hansen » Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:35 am

I use Zip Strip paint remover to get the tough crud off . Get the strongest one you can find . Use rubber or plastic gloves . If you have a painted head or cylinder kiss the paint good buy . After I let the paint remover stay on for a hour or so ( helps to put the coated part in a Zip lock bag also) I wash it off in hot water scrubbing with hand soap ,tooth brush or a finger nail brush . Of all the engines I have sold & cleaned for others no one has said yet that they were dirty . DON"T breath the fumes & be sure to clean your wifes sink when your done or no supper. MAX H. :lol:
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Polish engines

Postby max hansen » Sat Mar 03, 2007 10:26 pm

I have used some radial polishing disks made by 3M,they are used with a Dremel tool . The bad thing about them is that you need to buy a complete set & it costs 42.15 in the Micro Mark catalog . Next bad thing is that some are too coarse & some are too fine . Now if someone can come up with a place where you can just buy the ones you need it would sure help . I did a Arden .098 with them & it looked like chrome ( how long it lasted I don't know) .
We used to polish aircraft in the Air Force with Never-Dull (what a pain in the a**) Found out that after a short while the aluminum would turn black ,we then would put Glass Wax on it . Picked up about 7 knots on a polished & waxed C-45 ( they had no where to go in a hurry). Our C-124's were done with a product called Turco (I think ) done on the wash rack & only done once a year as it etched the aluminum ( again if I remember right , only been a little over 40 years ago )
I am always experimenting with ways to do engines ,if I find a new or better way I will sure let you troops know . Food for thought , MAX H. :lol:
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Postby jcarrion » Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:53 pm

SUMERGE the whole thing in diesel for a couple days.
Then clean it with a jet of petrol

Sand the rustu bits , and remel-out the alluminium parts

and you got a new-looking engine

Javier
www.spannerheads.com
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A product

Postby coosbaylumber » Tue Apr 22, 2008 8:15 pm

Well, can tell you what I did a few years ago.

I got some Sherwin-Williams Dual Etch (has a 26 in part number someplace) which is designed to remove oxydation on aluminum sheet, then secondary it gives a bit of etching for smooth shiney new looking aluminum all in readiness for a painting using auto products. There are a few alternative uses to this otherwise automotive paint product.

What I found was to scrub up an old McCoy, with standard soap, tooth brush, and grit. Rinse off and let dry. Then using just a bit of the dual Etch on a wet toothbrush, scrub again. It will get brighter. If any stains are showing, it will also get brighter at a different rate. Do not let dry, or it will go dull and etch. But wash off in lottsa water and it will stay bright for couple of days.

Do not use on a surface that has been lacquer painted. Some outfits would spray the aluminum with a clear to show it off. Do not use on the blackened bolts for it will foam and remove the plating. Keep your hands squeaky clean or your finger prints will show off in a few minutes.

Wm.
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Postby chiefss » Tue Jul 15, 2008 11:35 pm

Be careful if you use a crock pot and antifreeze on an engine with a painted head like an old K&B torpedo or a McCoy red head. It will take the paint off.

I use a cleaner called Cheveron Products Perfect Engine cleaner. It takes off burnt on oil and makes an engine look new. Works well cold but even better hot.
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